Sea-dogs and games of cat and mouse

Venice, Day 2, Part 2:  Rialto bridge, San Marco's square and the Basilica

Despite our long and arduous day battling the dragon Smaug (there's one for fans of The Hobbit - ie, the twin demons of heat and greed), we figured it would be remiss of us and a failure in our duty as tourists if we did not cross over the Rialto and stroll through San Marco's piazza.

The Rialto is the obvious first choice given we need to cross the Grand Canal anyway so we follow the many signs that point in the general direction to Venice's most famous bridge.  Interesting side note: there are only three old bridges and one, controversially modern, new bridge spanning the Grand Canal given that traffic on the canal was essentially a water freeway where business was traditionally only along the length not across the width of the canal.

As we weave our way through the narrow streets, we know we are nearing the Rialto by the heavy press of countless others who are likewise making their way there.  At last a narrow, unassuming street empties us out into the still-brilliant sunshine and the base of the wide and worn marble steps that lead up and over the Rialto.

It's difficult to form a first impression of this famous landmark (or is that watermark?) due to the incredible number of people milling about like ants on a sticky bun.  What does stand out is the impressive size of the bridge; not only is it wide, it's deceptively high as well.

We start up the steps and make our way toward the apex hoping for some spectacular views of the Grand Canal on either side.  The centre of the bridge is occupied by a colonnade of what were originally shops leading up from the base of the steps either side up to a central portico.  Unfortunately, the arched entrances are currently boarded up with graffiti-covered plywood panels; whether for renovations or otherwise is unclear to us.  The only way across the bridge is via two, relatively narrow and congested 'lanes' running along the outer wall.  We slowly make our way through the bustle and find a small space to stand at the hand-rail which still shows the marks of the stone-mason's hammer on the outermost edge while the inner side is polished smooth from the countless hands before us that have leant there looking out over the Cannalesso.

It may be because of the anticipation or because of the tiring trials of the day that we are somewhat disappointed by the views.  The Rialto unquestionably affords you a good vantage point from which to appreciate the size of the Grand Canal but unfortunately it doesn't offer much in the way of spectacular grandeur that we expected.  From here, you can see the restaurants that line one bank of the canal flanked by an admittedly pretty mooring spot at which a handful of the city's gondolas and water-taxis currently bob upon the tide.

View from the Rialto bridge

It's not long before we leave our crowded perch to the punters ever searching for that perfect photo position jostling behind us and complete our crossing to the other side.  As we step off the Ponte Rialto, I notice a little cobbled path that curves around the base of the bridge to a small landing that is surprisingly (and relievingly) free of the madding crowds above.  From here, we actually get a better view of the 15th century carvings adorning the bridge itself as well as the water-craft passing beneath its high, arched underside as they ferry endless passengers to and fro.  A blue fishing boat, old in style but immaculate in finish, flicks up white spray as it whizzes by, charmingly scruffy mutt standing confidently at the prow.  Further upstream, a flotilla of gondolas slowly fan out across the width of the canal; the gondoliers calmly and expertly manoeuvering out of the path of an oncoming water bus.  If you visit the Rialto, I highly recommend you walk the few steps to this little landing - you'll appreciate the immensity of the architecture and sense the heartbeat of the canal at water level better than you ever would from up on the bridge itself.

View from below the Rialto

I'd also recommend you walk a bit further along the Grand Canal to the Ponte dell'Accademia.  While it's not to the same impressive scale nor fame of the Rialto, this timber and steel bridge does provide some spectacular views of the southern stretches of the canal and the grand palaces and other buildings that rise up out of the green water.

Views from the Ponte dell'Accademia

Moving on from the Rialto, we continue to follow the maze of streets toward San Marco's piazza.  Another interesting fact:  San Marco's is one of the very few piazzas named as such in Venice - most other 'squares' are actually known as campi (fields).  Perhaps this is why the locals refer to San Marco's piazza as simply "la piazza".  Like the Rialto, the first thing that strikes you when you enter the piazza is the scale of it and the buildings surrounding it on all four sides.  The entire northern side of the square is dominated by the columnated Procuratie Vecchie, the former homes and offices of the Procurators of the Republic of Venice.

At the shorter eastern end lies the famous Basilica, bedecked in gold and polychrome marble and blue paint made from ground lapis lazuli, still vivid after centuries of exposure to the elements.  It's a beautiful building with an interesting history having been continually added to over the years, including statues, friezes and other adornments brought back from Constantinople and the Orient by victorious Roman soldiers.  Slightly opposite the church is the campanile (bell tower) which completely dominates the piazza, rising high above the square, taller even than the highest golden spire on the church itself.

The square is, as you would expect, filled with people:  tourists, business people, and  street hawkers flinging gaudy, luminescent toys high into the air to attract tourists or trying to sell you handfulls of grain to feed the already overfed pigeons.  You'll also see the stylishly-uniformed carabinieri (police) moving through the crowds.  After a while of watching the move and sway of the crowd, we observed an interesting game of cat and mouse played out by the carabinieri and the street hawkers.  The carabinieri patrol the square, while the hawkers, keenly aware of their presence, surreptitiously move to other areas of the square if they get too close.  Once the carabinieri move on, the hawkers once again take up their original spots, only for the entire process to begin again.

As evening begins to set in, the sky turning a darker shade of blue to match that on the church, I'm slightly disappointed that this square doesn't affect me in the way that I thought it would.  Admittedly, we didn't get a chance to enter the church or climb to the top of the impressive bell tower, but I just can't help but feel that I'm missing something.

Moving through the square toward the Basilica, the crowd inevitably presses closer around us so we decide to move into the smaller square off to the southern corner away from the church.  Wikipedia tells me that this is the Piazzetta dei San Marco and, although much smaller than the main piazza, I find this space much more attractive.  Perhaps it's because the western side of the piazzetta opens onto the lagoon easing the eyes and allowing a welcome breeze to sweep across the square, cooling sweaty brows and reinvigorating our crowd-weary minds.

View across the lagoon from Piazzetta dei San Marco

Turning away from San Marco's square, we pass between the two granite columns topped by the bronze symbols of Venice at the edge of the piazzetta.  The Venetian sky turns a gorgeous inky-blue and the first stars begin to sparkle in the water's softly lapping surface as we walk along the banks of the lagoon towards home.